cable– The breeding of silkworms is one of the traditional crafts that is rooted in Afghanistan, where it is adopted for the production of natural silk, and it is a strongly present profession in states such as Herat, Balkh and Badakhshan, and it constitutes an important source of income for rural families. One of the factors that contributes to the continuity of this craft.
According to official figures, more than 5,000 Afghan families are working in silk production, where the cocoons of silkworms are gathered, and about 40% of them spin to strands, while the remaining part is used to weave the fabrics that are exported to Europe. The silkworm itself is a product of economic value, resulting in about 200 tons annually.
In 2022, the profession of silkworm breeding and silk production was included in the traditional way on the UNESCO list of infinite cultural heritage, a global recognition that reflects the deep cultural and social importance of this craft, and its role in promoting cultural identity and societal cohesion in Afghanistan.
“From ancient times, we have traditionally raising a silkworm in Afghanistan, and the history of this profession dates back to nearly 2000 years. The breeding of silkworms and the industry of cocoons for the first time in China began around 2600 BC, and the Afghan who work in this field face severe competition from cheap Chinese imports, where they struggle Local traditional methods to maintain their survival. “
An elaborate production process
The Directorate of Agriculture in the state of Herat, west of the country, indicates a noticeable improvement in the silk industry and the breeding of silkworm compared to the previous year, as more than 6 thousand boxes of silkworm were distributed to farmers and the residents of rural areas, especially in the “Zanda Jean” district.
Ahmed Shah Qayumi, head of the Confederation of Satellite Education farmers in Herat Province, explains to Al -Jazeera Net, that the production of silk from the cocoon of silkworms takes between 26 days to a month. The length of the single silk thread in the cocoon may reach between 300 and 900 meters, but the butterfly exit from the cocoon leads to tearing the thread to small pieces. He adds that the age of the butterfly is very short, and it is sufficient only to enable them to lay eggs.
Qayoumi asserts that factors such as feeding suitable for worms, the degree of appropriate temperature and humidity, along with the cleanliness and disinfection of the environment, are one of the decisive elements in improving and increasing the productivity of the silkworm.
He explains that this profession occupies the entire family members. And he adds: “The stroke of the insect produces silk threads when weaving the cocoon, then these cocoons are collected and boiled in a large bowl to extract silk threads.”
A new field to empower women
Economists in Afghanistan believe that the recovery of this profession is partly due to the return of women after they were prevented from work and studying in light of the current political situation. Official studies indicate that women carry out approximately 70% of the activities associated with the raising of silkworms and the collection of cocoons, which makes this craft an important economic resource for women in rural areas.
“My family has been practicing this profession for years. The closure of girls’ schools and preventing women from work was a major reason for many to return to this craft. 3 of my daughters are working with me now, and the production rate has increased compared to previous years, “said Maryam Ahmadi, who has been practicing the breeding of silkworm for 35 years, in an interview with Al -Jazeera Net.
Farmers emphasize the need to support silk workers and provide modern machines, as the majority of workers use old tools over 30 years old. They also call for the distribution of additional boxes of silkworm, which will contribute to raising productivity and enabling businessmen to export Afghan silk to global markets.
“If the Agriculture Directorate and the relevant institutions are able to distribute 10 thousand boxes of silkworms to farmers, this will provide job opportunities for 20 thousand people, and it will achieve a good income, with an increase of 35% compared to last year. Some young men and women need to participate in awareness seminars about the silkworm and the importance of the silk industry.”
Afghan silk .. symbol of luxury and resistance
Silk is used in Afghanistan in multiple fields, and has a special cultural and economic value in villages and rural areas. Its uses include sewing traditional female shawls, turbans, napkins, neck ties, jackets, wedding dresses, and hand carpets. Silk is considered in areas such as Herat, Kandahar, and Mazar Sharif is a symbol of luxury and respect.
“Although China and India dominate the global market for industrial silk, what distinguishes Afghan silk is natural and pure, and no chemicals enter into its industry. We rely in Afghanistan on craft production, and we seek to preserve the cultural identity of the country, and for this reason UNESCO included this craft within the list of heritage. Afghan silk is characterized by its natural quality, and its glossy and two fabrics. “
The process of recovery of the profession
The profession of silkworm education in Afghanistan has witnessed a recovery in recent years, due to economic and social factors, and the efforts of international and local organizations. Many young people who lost their jobs have returned after the withdrawal of foreign forces and the fall of the previous government to this vital sector.
“In the state of Herat, the youth’s interest in raising the silkworm increased by 60%. The reasons are due to being a fixed source of income for poor families, high demand for local silk, in addition to the improvement of the security situation, which allowed mobility within rural areas where berries are spread.”
Ghulam Rabbani, Director of Silk Industry Department, adds in a statement to Al -Jazeera Net that the modern funds provided by a foreign institution for farmers have achieved good results, and indicates that each village may need between 400 and 500 funds to raise silkworms, if appropriate conditions are available.
And he confirms that the silk industry is no longer in a stagnation, but its revenues increased by 60% and 70% compared to previous years, but the entry of foreign goods into the local market is still hindering sales growth. Rabbani calls on the Afghan authorities to prevent the import of foreign fabrics, to give an opportunity to make the national silk industry in order to grow and export their production.
